History of the Turfroute

 

A Historical Overview of The Turf Route (Opsterlandse Compagnonsvaart) in Friesland, The Netherlands

1. Introduction: The Turf Route and Compagnonsvaart – Friesland's Peat Artery

The waterway system in Southeast Friesland, Netherlands, known interchangeably as the "Turfroute" and the "Opsterlandse Compagnonsvaart," represents a significant historical and cultural artery of the region. While "Compagnonsvaart" directly references its original commercial purpose, highlighting its origins with peat companies, the modern designation "Turfroute" underscores its historical connection to peat and its contemporary role as a recreational route.¹ This dual nomenclature is more than a linguistic detail; it reflects the canal's profound transformation from a purely utilitarian, industrial thoroughfare to a cherished cultural and recreational asset. The modern name, "Turfroute," effectively leverages its historical essence to promote its current appeal, illustrating a deliberate strategy to market its heritage for contemporary enjoyment.

Geographically, this extensive network of canals primarily navigates through Southeast Friesland but also extends into the western part of Drenthe and the northern tip of Overijssel, forming a broader, interconnected system of waterways.¹ For centuries, these canals, largely excavated by hand, served as the economic lifeblood of the area, facilitating the transport of peat, which was the Netherlands' most crucial fuel source until the early 20th century.¹ Today, the Turfroute has been reimagined as a popular destination for recreational boaters, cyclists, and hikers, offering a distinctive fusion of natural beauty, cultural heritage, and historical narrative.¹

2. The Genesis of the Peat Canals: Purpose and Early Beginnings (16th-17th Century)

The Opsterlandse Compagnonsvaart, which forms the core of the Turfroute, was conceived and constructed with the singular purpose of enabling the commercial extraction and transportation of peat, often referred to as "black gold" due to its immense value as a fuel source.¹ The demand for peat experienced a significant surge from the 15th century onward, particularly driven by the energy needs of rapidly expanding urban centers.⁸

The driving force behind the canal's construction were powerful "veenbazen" (peat bosses) and "veencompagnieën" (peat companies), whose ventures in the peat trade amassed considerable wealth for several prominent Frisian families.⁴ For example, in 1606, the owners of the Kortezwaagster venen, located near present-day Gorredijk, obtained permission to construct a bridge and a lock, marking the foundational step in the development of the Opsterlandse Compagnonsvaart.² Key figures and families involved in the Opsterlandse Compagnie around 1645 included Johannes van Crack, Colonel Jacques van Oenema, Saco Fockens, and Saco Teijens de Oude. Later, in 1704, Augustinus Lycklama a Nijeholt and the heirs of Hans van Wyckel secured official consent from the States of Friesland to proceed with the canal's excavation.⁹

The construction of these canals was indispensable for two primary reasons: first, to effectively drain the vast high peat bogs (hoogveen), making the peat accessible for extraction; and second, to provide an efficient means of transporting the extracted peat blocks to distant markets.¹⁰ These main canals were frequently complemented by a network of narrower waterways, known as "wijken" (districts), which were laid out perpendicular to the main arteries. This intricate system further enhanced drainage capabilities and streamlined the transport process.¹⁰

The historical narrative of the peat industry reveals a stark socio-economic divide embedded within the very landscape it shaped. Historical accounts frequently mention "heren van stand, veenbazen en arme turfgravers" (men of position, peat bosses, and poor peat diggers).⁵ The "veenbazen" accumulated vast fortunes, becoming "steenrijk" (stone rich), and their legacy is visibly manifested in the country estates with magnificent gardens and parks found in areas such as Bakkeveen, Oldeberkoop, Beetsterzwaag, and Oranjewoud.⁴ In stark contrast, areas like De Frije Wiken, where many peat workers resided, were characterized by "extreme poverty".⁴ Historical records explicitly detail the "slechte naam" (bad reputation) of the veenbazen, attributable to their "nietsonziende uitbuiting van de arbeiders" (ruthless exploitation of workers), which included "minimaal loon, mensonterende woon- en werktoestanden en onmenselijk lange werkdagen" (minimal wages, dehumanizing living and working conditions, and inhumanly long working days).¹⁴ This profound disparity underscores that the canals were not merely engineering marvels; they are enduring physical remnants of a deeply stratified socio-economic system that generated immense wealth for a privileged few at the severe human cost of many. The landscape, with its grand estates juxtaposed against the former peat colonies, stands as a silent testament to this historical class division and the human toll exacted by the "black gold" industry.

3. The Era of Construction: Challenges, Progress, and Expansion (17th-19th Century)

The excavation of the Opsterlandse Compagnonsvaart was a monumental undertaking, stretching over approximately two centuries. Initiated in 1630 near Gorredijk, the canal finally reached its endpoint in Smilde in 1830.¹ The initial progress was notably slow; by 1718, the canal had only extended to Lippenhuizen.² This protracted development was not solely due to the sheer manual labor involved but also to complex socio-political and legal challenges. Legal disputes, such as those with Oene van Teijens cum sociis, who also held rights to peat bogs in the region, necessitated protracted negotiations and agreements before further expansion could proceed.⁹ The requirement for "consent van de Staten van Friesland" (consent from the States of Friesland) for digging further highlights that canal construction was deeply embedded within the prevailing legal and political frameworks of the time, involving land ownership, company agreements, and governmental approval.⁹

Following 1718, the pace of construction accelerated significantly. By 1767, 12.8 kilometers of the total 31-kilometer length from Gorredijk to the Drentse border had been completed. In 1790, work commenced on the final section, extending through Oosterwolde and Appelscha.²

A significant engineering challenge was managing the considerable elevation changes along the route. Appelscha, for instance, lies approximately 12 meters higher than Gorredijk.³ To overcome this, nine locks and numerous swing bridges were meticulously constructed along the section between Gorredijk and Appelscha.³ Historically, and in many cases still today, these smaller bridges and all locks are operated manually, a testament to the enduring traditional methods of waterway management.³

The canal's intended connection with the Witte Wijk in Drenthe faced a unique obstacle: a dam was erected at the provincial border to prevent water loss from the Smildervaart. This dam remained a point of contention and a physical barrier until 1894, primarily due to mutual fears from both Friesland (of potential overflooding) and Drenthe (of water scarcity and drying out).² The eventual resolution, which allowed the dam to be breached and the Damsluis to be constructed on Friesian territory, occurred only after comprehensive studies dismissed these concerns as unfounded and after maintenance responsibilities were clearly delineated between the province of Friesland (for the Opsterlandse Compagnonsvaart) and the national government (for the Drentse Hoofdvaart).² This protracted issue at the Drenthe border underscores how large-scale infrastructure projects are deeply influenced by inter-provincial anxieties over water management and resource allocation, demonstrating that progress is often contingent not just on engineering capability but also on effective governance and scientific assessment. The Damsluis at Appelscha is now a key operational lock on the route.⁵

The table below provides a chronological overview of the key construction milestones for the Opsterlandse Compagnonsvaart, illustrating the generational effort and the various factors that shaped its development over centuries.

Year	Event/Milestone
1606	Initial permission granted for bridge and lock construction near Gorredijk, marking the canal's inception. 2
1630	Official commencement of digging operations near Gorredijk. 1
1645	Formal establishment of the Opsterlandse Compagnie. 9
1704	Augustinus Lycklama a Nijeholt and Hans van Wyckel's heirs receive consent from the States of Friesland to dig the canal. 9
1718	The canal reaches Lippenhuizen, reflecting slow initial progress. 2
1767	12.8 kilometers of the 31-kilometer length from Gorredijk to the Drentse border are completed. 2
1790	Work begins on the final section, extending through Oosterwolde and Appelscha. 2
1830	The canal reaches its endpoint in Smilde, marking the completion of its primary excavation. 3
1894	The dam at the Drenthe border is finally breached, and the Damsluis is constructed, connecting the Friesian and Drenthe waterways. 2

4. The Golden Age of Peat Transport: Economic Significance and Peak Activity

During its commercial heyday, the Opsterlandse Compagnonsvaart served as the indispensable primary transportation route for peat, moving it from the bogs of Southeast Friesland to various markets, particularly those in the western parts of the Netherlands.¹ This vital function established the canal as a crucial economic artery for the entire region.

The canal experienced its most intense period of activity for boat traffic between 1850 and 1880. The year 1876 stands out as the zenith, with a remarkable 15,527 boats recorded on these waters, marking it as the busiest year in the canal's history.¹ This extraordinary volume of traffic is a powerful indicator of the peat industry's peak economic vitality. The phrase "drukste jaar ooit" (busiest year ever) ¹ vividly conveys the intense activity and the canal's central, indispensable role in the regional economy. This period of peak traffic directly reflects the high demand for peat as the predominant fuel source, signifying the pinnacle of Friesland's peat-driven prosperity and the full utilization of its specialized infrastructure. The canal, during this era, was not merely a route but the very pulse of the industry, and its traffic figures serve as a direct, quantifiable measure of that pulse.

The economic impact of the peat trade extended far beyond the waterways themselves. It directly fueled the development and growth of "veenkoloniale dorpen" (peat colonial villages) that sprang up along the canal's infrastructure.¹⁰ Settlements such as Gorredijk, Appelscha, and Oosterwolde flourished as key centers for peat extraction, processing, and transport.³ Furthermore, the substantial wealth generated from peat enabled the establishment of grand country estates by the affluent "veenbazen" in picturesque locations like Bakkeveen, Oldeberkoop, Beetsterzwaag, and Oranjewoud, leaving a lasting architectural and landscape legacy.⁴

The table below quantifies the peak period of commercial activity on the Opsterlandse Compagnonsvaart, illustrating its critical economic role.

Period	Annual Average Ships	Peak Year	Ships in Peak Year
1850-1880	Over 10,000 ships annually 2	1876 1	15,527 ships 1

5. Decline and Transformation: From Commercial Artery to Recreational Lifeline

Following 1880, shipping activity on the Opsterlandse Compagnonsvaart experienced a rapid and significant decline.² This downturn was primarily driven by the advent and widespread adoption of coal, which emerged as a more efficient and economically viable fuel source, leading to a sharp reduction in the demand for peat.¹ By 1900, peat had largely been supplanted as the primary fuel in the Netherlands, causing the once-thriving peat industry to diminish significantly.¹ As the local peat industry waned, the remaining peat from this region of Friesland was increasingly transported via alternative routes, such as the Smildervaart and Meppelerdiep, to the Zuiderzee, further eroding the Compagnonsvaart's original economic importance.²

With the cessation of commercial shipping, the Opsterlandse Compagnonsvaart lost its economic justification for navigation.² This economic obsolescence led to serious considerations for repurposing the infrastructure. In the 1960s and 1970s, plans were put forth to fill in the canal, converting it into a road or a green zone.¹⁵ This approach was, in fact, implemented in other areas, such as Drachten and Heerenveen, where similar waterways were filled.¹⁵

However, the preservation of the Opsterlandse Compagnonsvaart was largely due to the determined efforts of Father L. van Ulden and his dedicated supporters. They recognized the intrinsic value of the canal beyond its original economic purpose. To counteract the plans for its obliteration, they established the Stichting 'De Nije Kompanjons' (The New Companions Foundation).¹⁵ This foundation, which was formed approximately two decades prior to the publication of some historical accounts ², successfully campaigned for the canal's retention. This pivotal moment illustrates the profound impact of community advocacy and historical appreciation in shaping regional development. The success of 'De Nije Kompanjons' prevented the canal from being filled in, leading instead to its remarkable transformation into a tourist shipping route, now widely known as the Turfroute.¹⁵ This preservation effort allowed for the canal's continued use, now by a multitude of recreational boaters annually. The extensive system of canals, bridges, and sluices, once the vital arteries of a bustling industry, now serve as a tranquil network for leisure activities.¹ This transformation from an economically defunct industrial artery to a cherished recreational and cultural asset is a powerful example of how a community's collective will can redefine the purpose and ensure the survival of historical infrastructure, turning a relic of the past into a vibrant part of the present and future. It highlights adaptive reuse driven by cultural and historical preservation rather than purely economic motives.

6. The Turf Route Today: A Living Historical Landscape

The Turfroute has successfully transitioned into a vibrant recreational hub, attracting visitors for various activities including boating, cycling, and walking.¹ Its sheltered waterways make it particularly suitable for motorboats, offering an ideal touring experience even with moderate wind conditions.⁵

The route offers two main options for exploration: the "small Turfroute," which spans 105 kilometers primarily within Southeast Friesland, and the "full route," extending to 190 kilometers and encompassing portions of Drenthe and Overijssel.¹ The route operates seasonally, typically from May 15th to September 15th.⁴ It is accessible for boats with maximum dimensions of 28 meters in length, 5 meters in width, 3.30 meters in height, and a maximum draught of 1.10 meters.⁵

Navigating the Turfroute involves numerous bridges and twelve sluices (locks) designed to manage the significant height differences along the waterway.¹ Many of the smaller bridges are self-operated, providing an interactive experience for users, while larger bridges are managed by bridge keepers.³ To support the maintenance and upkeep of this historical infrastructure, an "entrance ticket" can be purchased at key locks, including those in Gorredijk, the Damsluis at Appelscha, and Sluis I at Oudehorne. This ticket covers all bridge and lock fees, contributing to the sustainable preservation of the route.⁵

The transformation of the Opsterlandse Compagnonsvaart into the "Turfroute" exemplifies a successful heritage tourism development. The route offers a rich tapestry of cultural and natural attractions:

• Historical Villages: The route meanders through charming villages and hamlets that originated as peat colonies, such as Gorredijk, Donkerbroek, Oosterwolde, and Appelscha.¹ Gorredijk, notably, stands as the only characteristic peat colony of considerable size that remains largely intact.¹⁵

• Peat Heritage: Visitors can still observe the visible waterways and "wijken" (districts) that were integral to turf transport, alongside old houses from the peat era.¹ The enduring legacy of the wealthy peat families is also evident in the country estates with their beautiful gardens and parks, found in places like Bakkeveen, Oldeberkoop, Beetsterzwaag, and Oranjewoud.⁴

• Museums and Events: The Museum Opsterlân in Gorredijk provides valuable insights into the region's past.⁴ Furthermore, the "Turfvaartdagen" (Turf Shipping Days) festival, held biennially in Appelscha, brings the history to life with old turf ships and traditional crafts, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the atmosphere of bygone eras.¹

• Nature Reserves: The Turfroute connects and traverses four national parks—the Drents-Friese Wold, the Dwingelderveld, the Alde-Feanen, and the Weerribben—as well as other significant nature areas like Wijnjeterperschar and De Deelen.⁴ Many of these areas, once sites of intensive peat mining, have undergone successful rewilding, transforming into diverse and biodiverse ecosystems.⁴

The very name "Turfroute" and events like "Turfvaartdagen" are deliberate efforts to capitalize on the canal's historical significance. The system of "entrance tickets" for upkeep demonstrates a sustainable model for preserving this heritage. This signifies a conscious strategic pivot from a purely industrial function to a cultural and recreational one, where the historical narrative itself becomes a primary attraction. The infrastructure, once a means to an economic end, is now the end itself—a destination for historical exploration and leisure, illustrating a successful redefinition of regional identity and economic focus.

7. Conclusion: Enduring Legacy of Friesland's Peat Canals

The Turf Route, also known by its historical name Opsterlandse Compagnonsvaart, stands as a profound testament to Friesland's deep-rooted history of peat extraction. What began as an indispensable economic necessity, fundamentally shaping the landscape and livelihoods of generations, has remarkably evolved into a cherished cultural and recreational asset.

The hand-dug canals, the intricate system of numerous locks, the distinctive peat colonial villages, and the grand estates of the "veenbazen" all serve as tangible, enduring reminders of a transformative era in Dutch and Frisian history. The route encapsulates the ingenuity, the arduous labor, and the periods of prosperity that collectively characterized the peat industry.

The successful efforts to preserve this canal, notably spearheaded by the Stichting 'De Nije Kompanjons', underscore a significant societal evolution. This shift moved beyond a purely utilitarian perspective of infrastructure to a profound appreciation of its inherent historical and cultural value. This foresight has allowed the Turfroute to persist as a living historical landscape, offering a unique fusion of natural beauty and a compelling historical narrative.

Today, the Turfroute extends an invitation to visitors to explore the "Other Friesland"—a region profoundly defined by its peat past, yet now celebrated for its tranquility, its preserved natural environments, and its rich cultural heritage. It stands as a powerful and inspiring example of how historical infrastructure can be thoughtfully reimagined and sustainably maintained, ensuring that its multifaceted story continues to resonate and be experienced by generations to come.